Good evening to all of you! May I present to you Glòria my very first doll for 2016! Yeh! I started this beauty early last December between a very busy schedule (working and going to school). It was my first time using Kato polyclay. From what I’ve read and heard from various articles and artists, this polymer clay was a must try. Last fall, I decided to purchased a few of them, beige, brown and white translucent. I will make a very short review of this clay and I will focus mainly on my personal experience and on my research to find the best technical aspects on making fully sculpted dolls. Let’s not forget, that my dolls stand between 17 & 19 inches tall (43 cm & 48 cm) and I have NO intention in making smaller ones.
First, this polymer clay looks and feels more like plastic when you touch it, but is not sticky when you start working with it. Second, if you need something to be strong after baking, this clay is the one to choose. Also this clay is not expensive for the quantity purchased (8,99 US$ for 12 Oz / 350g) http://prairiecraft.com/ On the other hand, I found two downsides to this polymer clay, the first one is its smell which tends to be very strong. In my own opinion, it smell like strong rubber or plastic, but I can work with it. The second downside, just like Cernit, the color darkens once baked. If I use it for future dolls, which I probably will, I plan to mix it with other strong polymer clays. For my Glòria, I chose the beige color mixed with translucent white. This beige color, unbaked, looks similar to Prosculpt Caucasian flesh.
Good evening! Making dolls is a serene and a relax time for me, but technically when things do not work out, it can be frustrating, especially when you are totally sure of what you are doing. I can’t tell you how many times some of my dolls that I created made me nervous, because of the clay used. Though most polymer clay cure generally the same way, between 265 °F (129 °C) to 275 °F (135 °C) sustained for 15 minutes per 1⁄4 inch (6.4 mm) of thickness, all brands are different. Some contain more PVC (polymer polyvinyl chloride) resin than others and some have more kaolin, like Fimo for which it changes the pliability, work ability and the appearance of the sculpted product once baked. Also, I went to so many artist blogs and websites to see and read all of the pros and cons for all of the types of polymer clay. It sad to say, that making polymer clay dolls, is different than making jewelry, though these two art forms are using the same medium, the approach is different. What I mean, is that my dolls are big, between 18″ and 20″ tall (45,7 cm to 50,8 cm) and are fully sculpted on a strong aluminum wire. Up to three and sometime four layers of clay are needed to make each dolls body. Each layer of clay must be baked before applying the next one and this makes the dolls heavy. I’ve been experimenting with many mixes of brands and which I still do, simply because I’m still in search for the perfect clay. I am a bit difficult and demanding when it comes to quality. I want the best for my dolls even if it means to work harder. I guess many of you is dying to tell what I am looking for, in other words: strength, durability, detail work and nice finish. Thank you for your interest all you art doll lovers.
Marie Georghy Jacob
- Left over mix of different brands
- All my left overs will be used to practice small parts: feet, hands and heads.
- Kato Polyclay, which I will use and test next month.